Princess Diamond Guide

About princess cut diamonds

Here's everything you should know before buying your princess cut engagement ring, from which ratio to choose for your princess diamond, to the best grades and how much princess diamonds cost.

Tips for choosing the best princess diamond

  • Find a princess cut with the ratio 1.00 for a perfect square diamond. A ratio up to 1.05 will also appear square to eye

  • Ideally, consider colour grades between D to F, as princess diamonds retain more colour than some shapes

  • Compromise on the clarity of your princess diamond, as the facet structure and intense sparkle will hide small flaws. Consider VS2 to SI1 for an eye-clean, great value stone

  • Ensure any flaws within the diamond are not located within the corners, the most vulnerable points of the stone

  • Choose a ring setting that will protect the vulnerable corners; box claws, rubover settings or a halo design are sensible choices

Find Your Princess Diamond Ring

What are princess cut diamonds?

Princess cut diamonds are a square diamond shape, cut with a brilliant facet structure to produce lots of sparkle. The sharp-lined, angular shape is a popular choice for engagement rings, providing a contemporary look whilst offering exceptional brilliance. First crafted in the 1970s, the princess cut diamond is a modern choice, characterised by its sleek appearance, and is perfectly suited to minimalist, refined ring designs.

Princess Diamond Guide

Why choose a princess cut diamond?

Whilst there are a number of rectangular and square diamond shapes, the princess cut diamond has a particularly sharp, sparkly quality like no other. Asscher and emerald cut diamonds, although square, lack the sparkle that princess cuts possess. Radiant and cushion cuts, similar in shape, lack the sharp-edged, pointed corners of the princess cut.

Choose a princess diamond for a bold, intensely sparkly square shaped diamond. The princess diamond is amongst the most economical diamond shapes. This is because the shape is similar to an uncut diamond crystal, meaning there is little diamond wastage during the cutting process. You’ll find your budget will stretch to a higher carat weight than with, say, a round or cushion cut diamond.

What’s the best cut ratio for my princess diamond?

Whilst they can be found in more elongated, rectangular proportions, a princess cut is typically square. Choose a ratio of 1.00 (perfectly square) up to 1.05 (which will still appear square to the eye).

A high quality princess cut diamond will have Excellent or at least Very Good symmetry. As a particularly angular, geometric shape, focus on finding princess cuts with the best symmetry. A square shaped diamond should have 4 lines of perfect symmetry, with facets that precisely reflect those on their opposite side.

How do I choose a princess diamond colour?

Princess cut diamonds are a brilliant cut, meaning they emit a great deal of white light and sparkle, which helps to minimise the natural traces of yellow or brownish tints sometimes found in diamonds. That said, princess cut diamonds retain slightly more colour than, for example, round diamonds, so stick within the colourless range D to F if possible, or H at the lowest.

As a rule of thumb for platinum rings, aim between D to F colour grades, and for yellow or rose gold rings consider diamonds graded D to H.

I adore princess cut diamonds. The square diamond shape is exceptionally modern looking - clean, crisp and geometric. Think about matching this with a super simple or equally contemporary design.

Laura | Gemmologist & Design Expert

How do I choose the clarity of a princess diamond?

Diamonds contain tiny, natural flaws, picked up during their formation - to find a flawless diamond is exceptionally rare (not to mention expensive). Therefore, compromising on the clarity of your princess cut diamond is a great idea; the facet structure, similar to a round diamond, emits intense sparkle and effectively hides inclusions in diamonds graded as low as SI1. Consider eye-clean princess cut diamonds between VS2 to SI1 for the best value for money.

The whereabouts of inclusions within your princess diamond is an important consideration, as the pointed corners are vulnerable to chipping or breakage. Avoid princess diamonds with inclusions located within the corners, as they can weaken these vulnerable points.

Princess Diamond Guide

What to be aware of with a princess cut diamond ring

The pointed corners of a princess diamond are an attractive feature, and add to the bold, angular charm of the stone. That said, you should be aware of the delicacy of the princess cut’s corners. The pointed corners of a princess diamond are prone to catching and knocking, and therefore chipping. Protect your princess cut diamond by choosing box claws for the vulnerable points, or designs such as a rubover or halo setting.

Princess Diamond Ring Inspiration

Take inspiration from our custom made engagement rings, individually designed with us and crafted by our in-house goldsmiths.

Princess Diamond Guide

How many facets does a princess diamond have?

Princess diamonds have 57 facets, cut in a typical brilliant cut style. The facet structure of the square diamond is similar to the round, equating to plenty of brilliance and sparkle.

Princess Diamond Guide

How much does a princess cut diamond cost?

A princess cut diamond ring will be less costly than a round diamond, and in fact most diamond shapes, of the same carat weight.

Princess shaped diamonds start from around £1,250 (based on 0.30ct, F, SI1). In comparison, a round diamond with the same quality grades will start at around £1,380. The higher the quality, the higher the price jump; a 0.30ct, D, VS2 princess diamond will retail at around £1,475, compared to a round diamond at £1,890.


Ready to view diamonds, hand-selected just for you?

Need help choosing the perfect ring?

Get in touch with our experts - we’re on hand to help.

Sign up for our newsletter

Keep up to date with our latest offers, competitions and news, and be a part of the Queensmith community!

Subscription successful. Thank you.