Diamond Expertise

Hearts & Arrows Diamonds

Diamonds are complicated, so it's important to know exactly where your money goes when making such a big investment. Many of us have heard of Hearts and Arrows diamonds, and the prestige that comes with them, but what exactly are they, and are they really worth it?

What are Hearts and Arrows diamonds?

'Hearts and Arrows' is a facet pattern found only amongst round diamonds, and signifies the very best in cut precision. The pattern equates to ideal symmetry, that in turn boosts the diamond's scintillation for incredible sparkle.

The top of the diamond is called the ‘crown’ and the bottom the ‘pavilion’. A Hearts and Arrows diamond should show 8 symmetrical arrow shapes from the crown. When viewed from the pavilion, 8 symmetrical heart shapes should be visible. The quality of hearts is directly related to the quality of arrows; perfect hearts will result in perfect arrows. When executed precisely enough, these elements will contribute to the brilliance and scintillation of the diamond.

Only round diamonds can have the hearts and arrows pattern, but other shapes can display similarly exquisite precision in cut, polish and symmetry.

An idealscope highlights the Hearts and Arrows patterns within a diamond's facets

The importance of diamond cut

The ideal diamond has a very strict set of specifications, striking the right balance between the 4 ‘C’s – cut, clarity, carat size and colour. This is where ‘Hearts and Arrows’ diamonds come into the equation. Since their emergence in the late 20th century, Hearts and Arrows have come to be known as the super-ideal diamond cut.

Henry Morse first discovered the true success of a round excellent cut in the 1800s when examined intently to find the kaleidoscopic effect that produces optimal fire and scintillation, and ultimately fantastic sparkle. After decades of refining the cutting and polishing process, the round brilliant cut style grew popular across the globe, and by the 1990s was perfected.

Are all 'Excellent' cuts Hearts and Arrows diamonds?

The short answer here is no – not all Excellent cuts qualify as Hearts and Arrows diamonds. A Hearts and Arrows diamond's facets is polished with such precision to meticulous angles and proportions that it surpasses the criteria for a GIA 'Excellent' rated cut. Although it isn't noticeable to the naked eye, heart and arrow shapes are not well defined in a diamond with lower optical symmetry. As with all pristine and perfect things in the world, Hearts and Arrows diamonds are extremely rare; only around 1% of the world’s cut diamonds would qualify as Hearts and Arrows, but 100% of Grown by Queensmith™ round diamonds are certified Hearts & Arrows diamonds.

There is no industry standard for grading Hearts and Arrows diamonds. While laboratories like IGI, HRD and various smaller Japanese labs do grade these diamonds, the other grading laboratories, such as GIA, do not specifically highlight such attributes. If a diamond achieves optimal brilliance and fire, it may be considered a Hearts and Arrows diamond, but this distinction will not be noted by GIA. Instead, the GIA will grade it as 'Excellent' based on their criteria, along with other 'Excellent' cuts that don't necessarily meet the Hearts & Arrows standard.

Should I buy a Hearts & Arrows diamond?

The importance of a Hearts and Arrows cut is really up to you. To the naked eye, you may or may not be able to distinguish between a diamond with Hearts & Arrows and one without. The unique Hearts and Arrows pattern can be better observed using a specific tool, the Idealscope.

However, Hearts & Arrows ultimately signifies an exceptional cut, so if this is important to you then you won't get better than a certified Hearts & Arrows diamond. For the most part, they are incredibly hard to come by unless you know where to look; only 1% of diamonds certified by IGI are Hearts & Arrows. This is one of the many reasons we created the Grown by Queensmith™ collection, to improve people's chances of finding that top, precision cut diamond for their perfect engagement ring, with all round diamonds certified Hearts & Arrows. Alongside their precision cut quality, these ethical lab diamonds are grown with top colour and clarity grades through net carbon neutral production.

The advice of most gemmologists, including our own, when investing in a diamond is to consider the cut as the most important attribute of the stone. The cut dictates how sparkly a diamond is, as total internal reflection is optimised through symmetry and precise cutting. The cutting and polishing process of a Hearts and Arrows diamond is exceptionally precise and time-consuming, taking up to four times longer than a standard brilliant cut. This process demands a high level of expertise from both the polisher and the cutting software developer. Additionally, achieving this precision requires sacrificing more of the rough diamond’s weight, so you may find a slightly higher price tag compared to standard Ideal or Excellent cut diamonds. That said, if you're looking at a lab diamond, the savings you'll make compared to a natural diamond do give you room to prioritise top, top quality, which to you may mean a Hearts & Arrows cut pattern.

Find your Hearts & Arrows diamond with Grown by Queensmith™

Grown by Queensmith™ is our exclusive range of carbon neutral lab grown diamonds created to the highest specifications, mirroring the physical and chemical attributes of natural diamonds – all while being produced through ethical and sustainable practices. High quality, low impact: these are lab diamonds that don't cost the Earth.

Each lab grown diamond is grown to D colour, VVS to VS clarity, and round diamonds are Ideal cut with perfect Hearts & Arrows facet structure. These diamonds are created in partnership with our European diamond lab exclusively for Queensmith, achieving Certified Sustainability Rated Diamond™ status, verified by the SCS.

Our lab diamonds are made using the latest in HPHT, a process that uses high pressure and high temperature to create the best quality diamonds in comparison to CVD diamonds – which often require post-growth treatment to improve their aesthetics. Grown to our exacting standards, GBQ diamonds are the pinnacle of diamond quality and testament to our commitment to evolve a more ethical, sustainable and transparent jewellery industry.

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