Old Mine Cut Diamonds: The Ultimate Guide to Antique Brilliance

The old mine cut diamond dates back to the early 18th to the late 19th centuries and is considered one of the earliest diamond cuts. These stones were cut entirely by hand, often under natural daylight or candlelight, long before modern technology and precise cutting techniques. Their handcrafted nature resulted in slight asymmetry, giving each stone its own unique charm – so different from the uniformity of contemporary diamonds. No two old mine cut diamonds are the same, and this is what makes them a special and sentimental stone for engagement rings.

There are some features that differentiate old mine cut diamonds from other diamond types:

• Squarish, cushion-like shape with curved sides and softly rounded corners.
• High crown and deep pavilion, giving a chunky, antique appearance.
• A small table and larger, open culet (the flat facet at the base of a diamond).
• Larger facets than modern cuts, producing a softer, candlelit sparkle.

Like today’s round brilliant, most old mine cuts feature around 58 facets, but their proportions are quite different. The result is a diamond with a softer, romantic glow and plenty of vintage character.

This antique cut is far from forgotten; in fact, it’s experiencing a resurgence in popularity, with Taylor Swift's engagement ring reveal in August 2025 and other vintage-inspired celebrity engagement rings sparking renewed interest in the old mine cut diamond.

Early 1700s – The Birth of the Old Mine Cut

• The old mine cut dates from the early 1700s through to the late 1800s, spanning the Georgian and Victorian eras.
• Originated in Brazil, the world’s main diamond source before South Africa’s mines were discovered.
• Cutters shaped diamonds entirely by hand, using candlelight to guide proportions.
• This results in a cushion-shaped stone with a high crown, small table, deep pavilion and chunky facets that gave off a warm, romantic sparkle.

Mid–1800s – The Rise of the “Old Mines”

• The term “old mine” originally referred to diamonds sourced from the older mines of India and Brazil, before South African deposits became the main global supplier in the late 19th century. Over time, the name came to describe the cut itself: a squarish shape with a high crown, small table and large open culet.
• The cut became the standard in Georgian and Victorian-era jewellery, favoured for its handmade character and soft glow under candlelight.

Late 1800s – Technological Advances & the Old European Cut

• The invention of the steam-powered bruiting machine revolutionised diamond shaping.
• Jewellers began experimenting with rounder proportions, giving birth to the old European cut, which replaced the old mine cut as the new ideal.
• This is when the old mine cut diamond began to fall out of fashion and production.

Interested in learning more? We recommend reading our guide on the history of engagement rings and their meaning.

Early 1900s – Decline but Growing Collectibility

• With the introduction of the modern round brilliant cut, old mine cuts faded from mainstream use.
• However, they became sought-after by collectors and jewellers specialising in antique and vintage designs.

Today – Revival & Appreciation

• Valued for their handcrafted charm, unique facet patterns and sustainable appeal as recycled heritage gems.
• Popular among those seeking vintage engagement rings or ethically sourced diamonds with history and personality.

Genuine antique old mine diamonds are rare. As the precision of modern brilliant cuts improve and become more popular, very few cutters create diamonds in this shape anymore. You're more likely to find an old mine cut diamond already set in antique jewellery, though this is still very rare.

Because of their hand-cut nature, they often feature asymmetry, visible inclusions and less brilliance than today’s cuts. For collectors and enthusiasts, this adds to their charm, but for buyers seeking consistency and brilliance, they can be a challenge.

It’s easy to confuse the old mine cut with the later old European cut, but there are some key differences. . .

The old European cut diamond is a historic diamond cut that is considered the direct precursor to the modern round brilliant cut. It is highly sought after today as an antique cut for vintage and estate jewellery.

The European cut was primarily popular from the late 19th century through the early 20th century (roughly 1890–1930), especially during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods.

Think of the old mine cut as the ancestor of the cushion cut, while the old European cut is the direct predecessor of the modern round brilliant cut. Both are antique cuts with romance and history, but the old mine cut offers a squarer, chunkier vintage feel.

The cushion cut diamond is widely considered the modern evolution of the old mine cut. Both share a square or rectangular outline with rounded corners, but cushion cuts are designed with modern precision to maximise brilliance and fire.

If you're after the vintage-inspired engagement ring look and love the romance of an old mine cut but want a stone that’s practical and accessible, the cushion cut is a natural choice. Cushion diamonds can also be lab grown, making them a cost-effective, sustainable and conscious choice that captures the antique look of old mine cuts but with the brilliance of modern faceting.

When evaluating an old mine cut diamond, it’s important to look beyond the modern standards of the 4Cs. These antique diamonds were cut by hand, long before today’s precision tools existed – their charm lies in their individuality. With high crowns, small tables and large open culets, old mine diamonds often receive lower cut grades by contemporary laboratory standards, yet it’s exactly this soft, irregular geometry that creates their romantic, candlelit glow.

Unlike modern brilliants, old mine cuts typically feature warmer colour tones, often within the G–K range, which add to their vintage appeal and pair beautifully with antique-inspired settings. Because much of the carat weight is carried in the deep pavilion, an old mine cut diamond will usually appear slightly smaller face-up than a modern brilliant of the same weight. For this reason, its millimetre diameter (or spread) is often a more meaningful indicator of size than carat weight alone.

Read more about the 4Cs of diamonds here.

Old mine cut diamonds are at their most beautiful in settings that celebrate their vintage style. Popular choices include:

• Rubover or bezel settings: Protect the diamond’s edges while emphasising its chunky, antique proportions.
• Trilogy rings: Flank the old mine cut with side stones (like baguettes) for an elegant, heritage-inspired look.
• Split or tapered bands: A nod to Georgian and Victorian styles, adding balance and symmetry.
• Two-tone settings: Mixing metals was common in 19th century jewellery, making this a fitting option for authenticity.

Ready to design your dream engagement ring? Get in touch with our expert team, who will help you to recreate the vintage feel of old mine cut settings while tailoring the design to suit modern lifestyles and tastes, ensuring your engagement ring feels both timeless and unique.

If you value history and rarity, owning a true old mine cut diamond can be a special experience. These stones offer an authentic connection to jewellery’s past, though they are rare and harder to find.

For most couples, a cushion cut diamond offers the same character and beauty, with far greater availability and affordability – and when crafted into a bespoke engagement ring, it becomes entirely unique and personal to you.